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 Enjoy a morning's sightseeing in Palma.  Despite the many visitors the city retains much of its traditional character and is remarkably unaffected by tourism.  The Cathedral is majestic and one of the finest examples of Catalan/Mediterranean gothic.  The Gaudí lanterns are marvelous, though the contemporary Barceló chapel does not appeal to all.  Nearby, the Almudaina Royal Palace is a very interesting visit, with fine stonework, gothic arches and filled with superb tapestries.  It is used by the King occasionally for formal events.  Then stroll in the narrow, unchanging streets of the old town.  An essential visit is to the Arab Baths which, miraculously, have survived intact and untouched by the hand of a restorer.  Hidden behind a wall and with a delightful courtyard garden, it feels like a “secret” place.  Nearby is a real insider moment, the house of the painter J Torrens Lladó who died aged 37 in 1993.  Now run by the Foundation which bears his name it is a superb medieval palace turned into a fascinating residence filled with the artist’s amazing range of paintings, from abstract to 19th century style society portraits, to Monet-reminiscent water lilies.  This is definitely not a place visited by the average tourist.  A visit to the heart of Palma should also include a stop in a traditional pastry shop, such as the Forn del Teatre, where they make memorable ensaimadas and other sticky goodies.   

 Then it will be time to drive out of town to the magical north coast of the island passing through the much visited town of Valdemossa, where the Charterhouse was once a great monastery, closed in 1832.  It is still quite attractive but filled with tourist shops and cafes, so better to continue on up into the mountains that line the coast.  Towards the enchanting village of Deia you catch glimpses of the Mediterranean. And then between Deia and Soller you come to one of the most perfectly sited restaurants in all the Balearics, the Béns d'Avall.  It stands on the cliff top looking down to the tiny bay and far out to sea.  It is also among the finest restaurants in all Spain so lunch here will be truly memorable. Here the chef Benet Viçens creates a marvelous blend of avant-garde cuisine with marvelous tradition Mallorquin fish and seafood stews.

 Returning towards Palma you pass through, and may like to stop in the delightful town of Soller, where transport through the historic centre is by means of an ancient streetcar.  Or, after passing through the tunnel stop, if time permits, in Alfabia at the magical gardens and fine country house, with a lovely interior, on what was the site of the summer palace of the Moorish kings of the island in the 12th century. 

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